Hiking through Norway's Sognefjord, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
After taking one of the world's most scenic train rides to Flam, we kept traveling farther along the shores of Norway's famous fjord lands. We drove past waterfalls and viking rowboats, past the factory where the penny-loafer shoe was invented, into a little valley village called Aurland. Here is where we found our little boutique farm hotel called Aurland 29/2. The stand alone one bedroom suites were surrounded by a big vegetable garden, wood fired hot tubs, beautiful flowers, and horse fields. On one side a famous fly-fishing river flowed by, while sheer cliffs towered over us on the other side.
The meals here were noteworthy. Most of the food, from the fish, to the meat, to the vegetables, were all sourced locally. You could go watch the chef picking veggies out in the garden. The neighbor's farm seemed to be a good supplier of chicken and eggs. The chefs did a great job preparing multi-course dinners and they even paired the courses with different wines. They did get me once by slipping blue cheese onto the dessert. The owner came out our first night and gave a great speech about the history of the place and some of the relationships.
We felt like we had the place to ourselves, with just a few other smaller groups and couples showing up for dinner. The lit the wood fired hot tubs and sauna for us, which really hit the spot after a day of adventuring. And speaking of adventures, when you are here in the Sognefjord - or King of the fjords- the thing to do is to hike and boat out in nature. There are ancient trails everywhere, and unlike Alaska's fjords, there are no bears to watch out for. We set out to do just this, with our local guide, Thomas.
Our plan was to hike the Old Postal Road, or Den Kongelege Postveg. The fjord. This trail connected some of the remote villages and historic farms that dot the Sognefjord, which stretches near 200 kilometers inland from the coast north of Bergen. Even today, some of these farms look totally cut off from any road system. The part of the Postal Road that we were hiking today started on the opposite shoreline from a tiny village at the end of the road past Flam. We had to take a traditional Viking rowboat across the tranquil waters of the fjord to start out adventure. Mist clung to the sheer cliffs and waterfalls tumbled from the snow melting up top.
I felt like I could have been transported back to the fjords of Alaska. The geology is very similar. However several differences stood out. I found myself checking the cliffs and meadows for bears and mountain goats, but there are none here. Thousands of years of sheep farming and civilizing has depleted most of the wildlife. Also, it was so different having a relatively flat trail leading under the cliffs of the fjord. The fjords in Alaska plunge too steeply into the water for any kind of shoreline trail. That was also the case here in some places, but long ago a trail had been built using thousands of rocks, built up enough so the path could continue.
The rains stayed away, minus a few drizzles, which added to the lushness and mystique of the place. We only saw two other people on the trail all day, although several kayak groups passed us out on the water. We did share the trail with grazing sheep, as we were walking through a working farm. I would highly encourage folks to try this out if they are in the area. It feels wild, but also deeply rooted in Norway's history.
Long exposure of a waterfall that we found deep in the Sognefjord after hiking along the Old Postal Road from the town of Flam.
Kathy, getting a hand as she climbs up from our boat ride across the fjord.
The waterfalls were raging here in Aurland. We hiked to this one near out little boutique farm hotel. Did you know that you can take these long exposure photos with your iphone? All you have to do is take a photo of a waterfall in 'live' mode, then hit the word live on your picture and a secret menu pops up with 'long exposure' as an option. It is awesome.
Long exposure of a raging river and the multi shades of green that surround it.
Our old local driver in orange, and our hiking guide, Thomas. We are boating across the Sognefjord to our hike on the old postal road.
Traditional Norwegian hiking food. It is very much like a kitkat bar. When you open it there are the 10 rules of hiking in the backcountry printed on the inside of every wrapper.
Our handmade, traditional rowboat, sits ready to take us across the majestic Sognefjord to our hike.
And away we go. Living the Viking life.
Early morning light over my room at Aurland 29/2, our boutique farm stay.
This is the 'grandfather house', where I stayed at Aurland 29/2.
Like I said, never far from a waterfall or two or three.
Wildflowers and the fjord.
Our traveling group, enjoying a wonderful farm-to-table meal at Aurland 29/2. Jerry, Terry, Mary, Kathy, Laura, Bob, me, Tom, and Deb.
Taking in our surroundings on the Old Postal Road hike.
There were a few rebuilt traditional structures on this hiking path. This was, the Kvedni, was where a fiddle-playing devil creature would lure locals.
This mound of rocks was a very old tomb of some prominent citizen of the fjord.
Map of the amazing Sognefjorden, the longest fjord system that is inhabited.
We pulled our traditional rowboat up on this gravel beach after crossing the narrows of the fjord.
A nice greeting when I arrived at my room in our farm boutique hotel called Aurland 29/2.
Deb, Mary, and Bob enjoying a wood fired hot tub in Aurland, Norway.
Our hiking guide looking like he very well might have some Viking blood in him.
Terry going full send mode on our little jaunt to the local waterfall in Aurland.
This little church was in a cluster of buildings outside of Flam. This is where we paddled across the fjord to reach the start of the old Postal Road trail.
The clear water of the fjord provides a deep shade of green, while the foliage of the fjord provides infinite more shades of green.
The cliffs are high enough here to go from sea level to snow.
Reflection of mountains and waterfalls in the calm waters of the fjord. Its unusual to find sailboats here, because there isn't much wind, but there was this one.
Low tide near the end of the road in the fjord.
It looks like Terry has an invisible paddle. Guess they didn't trust him with a real one :)
I like how they color-code their hiking trails around here, signifying different difficulties, much like ski hills.
Sheep with loud bells around their necks, leading the way along the trail of the old Postal Route.
The old Postal Route goes through farm land that is still in use, mostly for sheep.
The grandmothers house at Aurland 29/2.
Mary and Terry hiking in Norway.
The waterfall and river were raging so hard that even the trail turned into part of the river.
Almost at our picnic spot on the old postal route in the Sognefjord.
I liked this wooded carved statue near out lodge in Aurland.
Bob and Kathy tackling the uneven terrain of the old Postal Route hike.
Viking traditions in the fjords of Norway, still alive and well.
